The Lolo shawlette is an easy, quick knit and I’m loving the project. What I’m not loving is how the yarn balls keep bouncing and twisting, especially when I was sitting in the airport and in the plane. It’s much easier to knit with two balls when you have the luxury of a couch. Although it’s too late for Lolo, I’ve used some of my new knitting-themed fabric to make yarn ball holders. Aren’t they cute? They are ready for my next two-yarn project. If I ever try a three yarn project, I’ll just sew another holder.
These are easy to make.
Pattern drafting paper – I have a huge roll of tracing paper purchased at Michael’s
Ruler – I use my long quilting ruler
Main fabric – I used 20 1/2 inches by 12 1/2 inches
Lining fabric – I used 20 1/2 inches by 12 1/2 inches
Iron on interfacing – I cut two 4 inch squares
1/2 wide Velcro – Cut 4 – 1 inch pieces
1. To make the pattern, figure out how wide you want each square, I measured a few of my yarn balls and they were about 4″ in diameter so that’s the figure I used. When teaching earth science, I had the students make models of the different crystal formations, so I adapted that template and adjusted the size for my needs. On pattern paper, you will be making a cross-shape which is 5 squares long by 3 squares wide. Since I based mine on 4″ squares that’s 20″ long by 12″ wide. After drawing that size on the paper I added 1/4″ all around for the seams. That made my pattern 20 1/2 inches long by 12 1/2 inches wide. The quilting ruler is so perfect for this pattern drafting.
2. Lay pattern on fabric and cut out 2 pieces; one main fabric and one lining fabric. Also cut out two squares of iron-on interfacing. It will be used to stabilize the square where the buttonhole will be sewn.
3. Iron on the interfacing. I forgot to take a picture of this step. Look at the layout picture and see that I’ve noted where the interfacing is to be ironed. It is ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric.
4. Sew up the four side seams on both the main fabric and the lining. Use 1/4 inch seams.
Look closely at the top of the box and you can see a bit of the ironed on interfacing.
5. Pin your boxes right sides together. Sew around using a 1/4 inch seam. Make sure to leave an opening of about 2 inches so you can pull the boxes right sides out. I clipped the seam where the top meets the box, the l-shaped junction. After the box is pulled right side out, sew closed the opening. I ironed the seams the best I could. I am a seam ironer, if you’re not that’s ok.
6. I decided I did not like how “floppy” the square looked so I pinched the sides together, including the main fabric and the lining, and sewed a 1/8 seam. Now the box stands nicely on its own.
7. This is the part which took up a lot of my time. I really wanted to try an eyelet or grommet, but after testing quite a few on a waste strip, I decided the “round” buttonhole would work the best. The metal items had bits to snag the yarn. I went around the buttonhole 3 times to make sure it was nice and strong. Cut the buttonhole open.
8. Attach the Velcro closer. I have magnetic closers, but since we travel so much I did not want to worry about the magnets attaching to other items or erasing magnetic strip information on cards. (When teaching I threw some neodymium magnets into my purse to bring to school and wiped out the info on my credit cards.) You can see the marks where I measure the middle of the flap and the middle of the bottom square where the flap attaches.
9. Attach Velcro to the sides of each box, the hook on one box and the loop on the other. I folded the side in half both lengthwise and widthwise and made a mark for the middle of the square. Now I can attach both squares together.
10. Add yarn. See how nice and “snuggly” my yarn ball is? Now my yarn holder is all ready for my next two-yarn project.